The story of how I was schooled in the art of cooking rabbit.
Until a few years ago, I had been eating rabbit every Monday night since I was born. Monday was the day off from the restaurant, so the whole family got together to eat at my grandfather’s house. Chicken Soup, Rabbit, whatever vegetables were in season, insalata, fruit, nuts, and coffee. I always ate rabbit without thinking it was the cute, little bunny I would see in my schoolbooks. In fact, when I saw a rabbit, I was known for saying “yummmmm.”
But that’s besides the point. When I was in highschool, my family went to Italy for a summer. One of my uncles had a farm and vineyards, with turkeys, pigs, chickens and roosters, a fish pond, half-rabid cats, and of course, the rabbit coop. One of the first nights we were there, we went to eat over the farm-house. While I was playing with the devil-cat (he was black and always scratched me), my aunts were preparing food. We were having rabbit that night, and my aunt wanted me to come to the rabbit coop to pick out a rabbit. Totally did not make the connection. We picked out a rabbit, and before I knew it, she snapped the rabbit’s neck. Right in front of me. No warning. I clearly remember this because I was numb from what I saw. She then put it down on the woodblock near us and began to rip the skin off. What strength this woman had. It was like seeing a butcher quarter meat with his own hands. I was horrified. Needless to say, I did not eat rabbit that night. Or for a while after that.
It did not take long for me to get back into it, though. When we came back, my grandmother had me watch and “learn” how to quarter rabbits to feed 12 people. And how to cook it. Sherry wine, oil, salt, pepper, and bay leaves. Leave the head and brains to my grandfather, as well as the kidneys. The “wings” (or hind legs, but they look like chicken wings) are for the kids, I take the some ribs, and the other parts split evenly. Whoever got the lean piece of muscle with no bones was considered lucky. I sound totally gruesome and merciless, but believe it or not, that’s what happened in the kitchen on Monday nights. And it tasted delicious every time.








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